Robert Fuller Wildlife Artist: Wildlife art at its best!
Robert Fuller Wildlife Artist: Wildlife Art at its best!  
 

 

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Penguins in Antarctica - Dec 07/ Jan 08  
 

We Three Kings by Robert E Fuller
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In December, I set off to the Falkland Islands & Antarctica for a five week trip to study penguins. It was a fantastic opportunity to get up close to these magical birds and have a go at painting them!

   
 

Robert's Itinerary to the Falklands and Antartica

21 Dec 06 Depart UK

This evening you depart the UK on your 1850 Lan Chile flight to Santiago via Madrid .

22 Dec 06 Santiago

This morning you arrive into Santiago at 0740 and your next flight down to Punta Arenas departs at 1215. Upon arrival in Punta Arenas at 1635 you are met and transferred to a Cabo de Hornos hotel for the night. BB

23 Dec 06 Falklands

Today you catch your Lan Chile flight to the Falklands , departing at 1300 and arriving into Mount Pleasant airport at 1440. Upon arrival you are transferred onto a small plane for your flight to Saunders Island where you will stay for 3 nights on a self-catering basis. You overnight at the Neck on the first night and then have 2 nights at the Settlement with a tour to the Rookery on the 25 th .

This 30,000 acre island, situated about three miles off the north west coast of West Falkland, about 90 miles from Stanley, is still an active sheep farm and is important historically for being the site of the first British settlement in 1765. However the attraction to the wildlife enthusiast is undoubtedly the Black-browed albatross colony which stretches along the north coast The Neck, so named because it is a narrow sandy isthmus between two high parts of the island.

Saunders Island is a haven for wildlife lovers and photographers with gentoo, rockhopper, magellanic and rare sighting of macaroni and chinstrap penguins. Since 1980 a small breeding colony of king penguins has become established. Four species of raptors, black-browed albatross, king and rock cormorants, black-necked swans and many other shorebirds are easily accessible from the settlement or at the many and varied wildlife ‘hotspots' around the island.

The Neck is one of the Falklands supreme wildlife sites. The northern beach is covered in stunning white sand pounded by majestic surf and is home to all of the penguin and bird species listed above. Nearby are a number of colonies of nesting black-browed albatross. On rare occasions Fin and Sei Whales have been seen off the island. In all cases amazing photo opportunities abound, and all of this only minutes walk away from the self-catering cabin at the Neck.

There is a small store in the settlement where a variety of frozen, dried and tinned provisions can be purchased. The farm can usually provide bread, milk, eggs and meat on request. All food purchases must be paid for in Falkland or Sterling pounds.

26 Dec Sea Lion Island

Today you fly to Sea Lion Island and stay for 1 night at the lodge on a full board basis. Sea Lion Island (905 hectares) is the most southerly and oceanic of all the inhabited islands in the archipelago. It is situated some 16 kilometres to the south of the mainland of East Falkland and 110 kilometres long and 2 kilometres across at its widest point and belongs to the Falkland Islands Development Corporation.

In common with many other offshore islands in the Falklands , it is comparatively fertile and was successfully run as a private sheep farm for many years. This was achieved despite the lack of a harbour or landing dock. Essential supplies were landed by boat in a gulch on the more sheltered northerly side of the island and then hauled up a cliff. This is still the case today although many lighter goods are now transported to the island by air. The farmhouse was built from the remains of a british vessel "Viscount" which was wrecked here in 1892. In recent years the sheep farming operation ceased to be viable and virtually all the livestock were removed with the exception of some cattle and a few dozen sheep for meat production. The island's ecomony now relies entirely on tourism centred on the world famous Sea Lion Lodge.

Unlike many places in the Falklands this island has remained free of introduced species such as rats, mice and cats. As a result the population of small birds is both larger and tamer than in many other areas. There are colonies of southern sealion and giant petrel as well as ducks, grebes and numerous waders to be found here. The Falklands' largest breeding assemblies of elephant seal, which during the summer total around 2000 animals, are scattered along the sand beaches towards the east end. A resident pod of killer whales are often seen close inshore, hunting the young seals pups in late spring and early summer.

The Lodge, purpose built in 1986, is managed by Robert McKay, He along with his staff, ensure that their guests are superbly looked after throughout their stay. Guests can expect all the home comforts including: central heating in every room; ensuite shower, sink and WC in the two double rooms and the six twin rooms; and a shared shower, sink and WC for the five single rooms; all bathrooms have a shaver point.

There are two spacious and comfortable living rooms, equipped with a television and a well stocked library of wildlife books. There is also a conservatory with chairs and tables, which is decorated with plants and flowers. The Pintail Lound Bar offers an extensive range of wines, beers and spirits to enjoy after a wonderful day exploring the island. There is a guest computer with internet facilites, a CD burner for your images located in the Peregrine Lounge.

27 Dec Volunteer Point

Today you fly back to Stanley and transfer to Volunteer Point where you stay for 2 nights on self catering basis in tents. At Volunteer Point is a colony of King Penguins, a colony of Gentoos and Magellanic penguins and burrows.

While you will see Gentoos at a variety of places in the Falklands , Kings are not so frequently found and Volunteer Point is the best chance to see them. As of 2005 there are around 600 breeding pairs of King penguins and nearby over 750 breeding pairs of Gentoo penguins.

In addition to these colonies, there are several hundred pairs of Magellanic pengins, a wide array of wading birds such as oystercatchers and sandpipers, and smaller birds like the long-tailed meadowlark, Falklands thrush, Magellanic snipe, Falkland pipit and dark-faced ground-tyrant

29 Dec Stanley

This evening you return to Stanley and stay at Malvina House Hotel for 1 night on a full board basis.Located in Stanley . Malvina Felton gave her name to the original Malvina House back in the 1890's. The modern Malvina House, built in the late 1960's, was converted into a hotel in 1983 and has been extensively renovated. All 18 rooms have en-suite bathrooms with "power shower"; there is a large bar-lounge area and the original Conservatory houses the restaurant, considered the best in town.

30 Dec Return to Chile

You depart Stanley by coach for Mount Pleasant airport where you catch your flight back to Punta Arenas in Chile , departing at 1650 and arriving in at 1830. Upon arrival you will be met and transferred to Puerto Natales where you spend 2 nights at the Hotel Costa Australis. Until relatively recently Puerto Natales was just a simple pioneer town but it has seen considerable development in the last few years. Nevertheless, it remains a pleasant and unpretentious place , with a good range of things to do.Set on the Seno Ultima Esperanza ( Last Hope Sound ) it is the entry point to Patagonia .

The Costa Australis Hotel is situated on the waterfront with spectacular views of Seno Ultima Esperanza. The area the hotel is situated within a easy distance of Torres Del Paine National Park and Punta Arenas City . Close to the main square it is also the town's largest hotel, exhibiting both unique architecture and a relaxed atmosphere. Lobby, dining area and rooms are spacious and comfortable.

Costa Australis offers 50 rooms equipped with a private bathroom with tub & shower, independent heating in every room, acoustic and thermical windows, cable T.V., local & international phone service, safety deposit box, and smoke detectors.

1 Jan Torres del Paine

Today you will be transferred to the Torres del Paine National Park where you spend 3 nights at Hosteria Las Torres. Declared Biosphere Reserve by the UNESCO in 1978, the Torres del Paine National Park, is internationally renowned as one of the most beautiful, unspoiled and remote places of the planet. The attractions are its spectacular mountain range, lakes, flora and fauna .

Without doubt, one of the major attractions of the park is the Paine Massif, mostly composed of granite, and originated 12 million years ago. The highest peak is the Paine Grande (3050 m), although the most representative peaks are the "Cuernos del Paine" featured on most pictures of the park. The Torres del Paine are three sheer granite towers, that make a challenging and coveted prize for climbers.

In the southern extreme of the South Icefield , the park has many glaciers, lakes, lagoons and rivers. In particular, the Sarmiento, Nordenskjold, Pehoe, Paine and Dickson, each one with waters of different shades of blue and green. The largest rivers that cross the park are the Pingo, Grey and Dickson. The latter having three spectacular waterfalls, Paine, Salto Grande and Salto Chico.

The park flora varies with the area and altitude. You will find landscapes from windy grasslands to coigue and lenga tree forests that grow smaller as you gain altitude resembling a natural Bonsai garden.. Among the fauna inhabitants you will find guanacos (an Andean camelid), ñandús (American ostrich), condors, mountain lions, gray and culpeo foxes and a wide variety of birds.

3 Jan El Calafate

This morning you are transferred from Hosteria Las Torres to Cerro Castillo where you are put on the bus to El Calafate (approximately 5 hours). Upom arrival in El Calafate you will be met and transferred to the Hosteria Los Nostros where you stay for 3 nights.

During your stay in El Calafate, you will get a chance to explore the surrounding area on foot, by car and on boat trips onto Lago Argentino. All of these will be led by experienced naturalist guides. You will also go on longer excursions to the main glaciers in the area, including the famous Perito Moreno Glacier in the Los Glaciares National Park .

El Calafate is located at the base of Calafate Hill on the shore of Lago Argentina , and is a charming town established in 1913 as a stop over on the Patagonian Trail. Lago Argentino is the source of the Santa Cruz River and is the third in size in South America with a total surface of 1,560 km2. It is located at 185 m above sea level, is 60 km long and between 14 and 20 km wide. Its depth varies between 35 and 1,000 meters, but in the central part and on the Southern shore facing Avellaneda Peninsula , it is 300 meters deep. The unique colour of the water is due to a very fine powder produced by glacier abrasion, called “glacial meltwater”.

Los Glaciares National Park covers a total area of 600,000 hectares. In 1981, it was declared a UNESCO Natural Heritage Site. Some 40% of the park is covered by giant ice fields, with 47 major glaciers of which 13 flow east descending into the park to feed the two big lakes, Lake Viedma in the north and Lago Argentino in the south. There are also about 190 smaller glaciers that are not connected to the ice fields. Just east of the ice fields are areas of southern beech forest and further east the Patagonian steppe with shrub vegetation. There are over a hundred species of birds inhabiting the forest and steppe.

The Perito Moreno Glacier is a short drive from Lago Argentino over well maintained all weather roads. Perito Moreno Glacier has a frontage of more than 3 miles, towering some 180 feet above the lake waters. Thunderous booms are common as huge chunks break off and fall into the lake. A series of "pasarellas" (boardwalks) with strategically placed viewing points let you explore the area at your own pace. You can also go on a motorlaunch excursion along the southern face, providing difference views of the ice walls. Condor, Black-necked Swan, Black-chested Buzzard, guanaco and puma ( Felis concolor ) can be seen in the area.

5 Jan El Chaleten

Today you will be transferred to El Chaleten where you will stay at Los Cerros for 2 nights. Hotel Los Cerros stands in the middle of a wild and exuberant Nature, creating a harmonic dialogue between its architecture and the surrounding landscape. It is a place with a direct reference to the environment and the features of the location, considering the mountainous constructions with their red sloping roofs and the use of local stone as the emblematic element.

7 Jan Ushuaia

Today you are transferred to the airport for your flight down to Ushuaia. You will be met on arrival and transferred to the Albatross Hotel for 1 night on a bed and breakfast basis.

Day 1: Ushuaia

We board our ship in the afternoon at Ushuaia on Tierra del Fuego, the southern tip of South America, and sail through the Beagle Channel in the early evening. The long days mean plenty of evening light in which to experience the beauty of the channel, and to perhaps enjoy our first wildlife sightings.
Meals included: 1 dinner

Day 2: At Sea

We sail northeast and along the way enjoy a series of presentations that prepare us for the coming adventure. On deck the first sightings of albatross and petrels are likely to add to the sense of excitement.
Meals included: 1 breakfast, 1 lunch, 1 dinner

Day 3: The Falkland Islands

Weather will be the deciding factor in whether we make this stop. Assuming conditions are favourable, we'll approach the archipelago as large numbers of albatross and other seabirds fly around the ship. We hope to make landfall on Bleaker Island, on the southeast corner of the archipelago.

This island is rich in wildlife that features three species of penguins (rockhoppers, Magellanic and gentoo), a massive colony of shags and upland geese. Many of the Falkland shorebirds, passerines and waders can also be found here. This is a great opportunity to get out and stretch your legs and go for a long walk on the beautiful white sandy beach. Meals included: 1 breakfast, 1 lunch, 1 dinner

Days 4 - 5: At Sea

Back at sea, we head east as the educational program continues onboard with fascinating sessions on conservation as well as the remarkable history of South Georgia and Antarctic exploration. We'll also have ample time to look for marine mammals and seabirds from the top deck of the ship. As we cross the Antarctic Convergence during this leg of the journey, we'll notice a significant drop in temperature.
Meals included: 2 breakfasts, 2 lunches, 2 dinners

Days 6 - 8: South Georgia

Reaching South Georgia, the most mountainous of all the islands in the Southern Ocean, we'll be awed by vistas of towering snow-covered mountains and glaciers. We'll cruise the more protected eastern coast of the island, seeking out suitable landing spots as conditions permit, including Salisbury Plain. Here colourful king penguins crowd the beaches in astonishing numbers.

At St. Andrews Bay, we'll find another 75-thousand pairs of king penguins on shore. Albatross, skuas and giant petrels wheel overhead, while fur seals are found frolicking in the water or on shore in large numbers. At Grytviken, we'll visit the old whaling station, and the grave of Sir Ernest Shackleton, one of the greatest of Antarctic explorers of all time. Meals included: 4 breakfasts, 4 lunches, 4 dinners

Days 9 - 10: At Sea

Crossing the Scotia Sea to the southwest, we'll sail past the South Orkney Islands linked to the Antarctic Peninsula by a massive range of sub-marine mountains. Sighting the islands will depend on the weather, ice conditions and the time of day. Along the way, it's likely that we'll encounter sea ice and an array icebergs floating north.
Meals included: 2 breakfasts, 2 lunches, 2 dinners

Days 11 - 14: South Shetland Islands & the Antarctic Mainland

En route to the South Shetland Islands, we'll hope to get close to Elephant Island, depending on the ship's progress and the weather. It's from here that Sir Ernest Shackleton set out for South Georgia in a small boat in 1916, undertaking one of the most remarkable sailing journeys of all time.

Then we'll spend several days cruising among the archipelago of the South Shetlands and its bays and channels of the Peninsula. We'll enjoy frequent shore excursions by zodiac boat, including possible excursions to King George, Half Moon, Aicho or Livingston islands. In addition to enjoying the astounding scenery, we'll also encounter extraordinary wildlife including a profusion of Adelie, chinstrap and gentoo penguins as well as several species of seal.

Weather permitting, we may enter the flooded caldera of Deception Island to explore the abandoned whaling station or perhaps enjoy a spectacular walk to some of the higher points of the crater rim.

On the Antarctic mainland, we'll concentrate our exploration around the northern tip of the Peninsula including Hope Bay, where we'll witness some of the most dramatic scenery the Antarctic has to offer. Throughout the Antarctic Sound, we'll be spellbound by massive tabular icebergs, some several miles long that crowd the waters. At Paulet Island, just off the mainland we'll find one of the largest Adelie penguin colonies on the Peninsula and surrounding archipelago.

Days 15 - 16: Drake Passage & Cape Horn

Leaving the Antarctic Peninsula and the South Shetlands the ship now heads north, back across the Antarctic Convergence and the Drake Passage for Ushuaia. Weather and time permitting, we'll attempt to round Cape Horn.
The last evening onboard we'll enjoy a special Captain's dinner together where we'll recap the adventures of our voyage.

Day 17: Ushuaia

In the early morning we arrive back in Ushuaia where the cruise ends. You are transferred to your hotel or to the airport for your onward flight.

25 Jan Santiago

Today you catch your flight from Ushuaia at 1423 and arrive into Santiago at 2215, via Buenos Aires. You will be met upon arrival and transferred to the Hotel Plaza el Bosque for the night.

26 Jan Homeward

This evening you are transferred to the airport to catch your 2000 Lan Chile flight back to the UK via Madrid, arriving into Heathrow at 1635 the next day.

 
 
 

 

 

Design by Victoria Fuller
© Robert E. Fuller, Wildlife Artist,
The Robert Fuller Gallery Ltd.
Registered address: Fotherdale Farm, Thixendale, Malton YO17 9LS, North Yorkshire UK.
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