Nowhere in the world offers better jaguar sightings than the Brazilian Pantanal. Not only is this home to the largest concentration of these beautiful cats, but the jaguars found here are bigger than anywhere else in the world. And sightings are abundant - I spotted nine on my very first day.
To follow in my footsteps to the Pantanal and book a similar trip: https://www.robertefuller.com/pages/travel-to-the-panatal
The Pantanal is the world's largest wetland. A UNESCO heritage site, it spans across Brazil, Bolivia and Paraguay. But it is in Brazil where the jaguar is the top predator. Home to around 5,000 jaguars, living in a 70,000 sq mile wilderness, it really is the best place on the planet to see these elusive big cats.
Pantanal Safari Tours
I visited as a guest of Pantanal Safari Tours, whose knowledgeable guides knew the area like the back of their hands. I travelled in October, towards the end of the dry season when the wildlife gets concentrated around the remaining water sources. We travelled by boat, which is the best way to spot jaguars when traversing this rich jungle.
Day One
As we set off to find our first jaguar, I'm enthralled by the wildlife all around us. There are capybaras, tapir, jabiru and more. In fact around 4,700 species of plants and animals also call this place home. 650 species of birds alone!
First jaguar
Within an hour we spot our first jaguar - and this beast was in hunting mode. Jaguars eat a wide variety of prey, and this one was looking for caiman. I watch as it leaps from the bank, hoping to surprise it's prey by pouncing from this height. This time it lands in empty water with a splash, but often this technique results in a kill.
Camouflage
The rosette markings in a jaguars fur help them camouflage perfectly against the surrounding vegetation and at times it can be difficult to spot them.
Caiman kill
We come across the remains of a caiman - almost certainly a jaguar kill and a stark reminder of the power of these animals. The jaguar has the strongest pound for pound bite force of all big cats and kill their prey with a crushing bite through the back of their skull. They have huge, rounded paws that house sharp, curvel claws - able to grab their prey and pull them down in minutes.
Fourth jaguar swimming
Our fourth sighting is of a jaguar swimming along the edge of the river, looking for caiman. Jaguars are strong swimmers and can even dive underwater in pursuit of their prey. They've truly adapted to this wet environment and can swim against very strong currents. Adults weigh around 200 pounds and have a very powerful stroke.
Giant river otters
Giant river otters also patrol these channels - swimming in family groups calling noisily to one another as they go. I spot one spraint and then wipe it's feet in it - known affectionately here as the 'poop dance' this is how these animals spread their scent. These six-foot long creatures. are built for this environment. Their large webbed feed, powerful, broad tails, and waterproof fur, make them supreme hunters. Local indigenous tribes call them the aquatic jaguar, and as a family group they would have the upper hand over a jaguar in the water.
Fifth & sixth jaguar sighting
Next we come across two males. Actually cousins, their family tree has been traced by the Jaguar ID Project. Named & Rio, this pair are actually cousins. Pantanal jaguars are the largest jaguars in the world, some of them almost three times the size of jaguars found in the Amazon!
Seventh, eighth, & ninth jaguar
Next we find a female jaguar and her two cubs hidden in the shade of a tree. I can hardly believe I came here to see jaguars and it's only my first day and I've seen nine!
But this wasn't even my best sightings. The very next day I found a female jaguar whose character shaped my adventure for the next two weeks.




1 comment
These beautiful animals are a reminder of how incredible our wildlife are and that we must respect and protect them.