Home to the world’s largest breeding population of king penguins, 30 million breeding pairs of seabirds, and half the world’s southern elephant seals, South Georgia is one of the greatest places on earth for wildlife.
However, with a history of whaling, it's capital Grytviken has an uncomfortable history and if it weren't for the way the wildlife has reclaimed this breathtaking landscape for its own, might be a haunting place to visit.
Reclaimed by wildlife
Grytviken does not shy away from its gruesome industrial past and vast oil tanks and chimneys still dominate the landscape. But the fact that penguins now march confidently past the rusting machinery and seals can be seen sunbathing on the former flat where whales were once slaughtered, makes visiting a hopeful experience. Even more poignant are the whales that can be seen splashing in the bay once again.
From the moment you arrive in this spectacular landscape, you are met with breathtaking scenes. From the vast, snow-capped mountains to the curious fur seals that run right up to you, this is one of the most incredible places on earth
Steeped in history
Grytviken is also where the great explorer Ernest Shackleton is buried and sports a beautiful Norwegian church, evidence of the community that once lived here. Highlights of a visit here include the South Georgia Heritage Trust Museum. This home to a truly fascinating collection. From a whale's eye and foetus to greeting cards featuring my own paintings of king penguins, it is possibly one of the most interesting museum's I've ever visited.
Scientific research
South Georgia is also home to the British Antarctic Survey, where biologists stationed at a tiny base at King Edward Point monitor wildlife populations and more. On my trip I was lucky enough to meet a former resident. Beverley Verwoert lived on the island as a child. Her father was the senior wireless operator until 1960 and it was an absolute priviligde to hear her firsthand memories of everyday life - including her uncle's encounter with the station policeman and her attempts to train a chin strap penguin as a pet!
Next time
Grytviken is a truly fascinating place. From its remarkable wildlife to its fascinating history, it is well worth a visit. Join me next time as I travel down the coast to St Andrew's Bay, home to the largest breeding colony of king penguins in the world
Travel like me
Find out how you can follow in my footsteps and book a similar trip to South Georgia and learn more about this travel destination here.
* With special thanks to: Wildfoot Travel, Beverley Verwoert, South Georgia Heritage Trust Museum, The South Georgia Whalers’ Memory Bank project, and The British Antarctic Survey
